Here’s the thing: Until Ruth Reichl’s delightful Save Me the Plums: My Gourmet Memoir, I had made what I thought was a lasting peace with Bon Appétit.
I had decided to accept, and perhaps even like, the hipster page layouts, the photos of people in vintage-wash t-shirts and man buns, harvesting mussels and ramps, pushing kimchi and miso. It was all fine: Time changes; we evolve; next generation, et cetera. And the recipes were fine – even good, sometimes – and respectably au courant. Curious about jammy eggs? Bon Appétit to the rescue.
[On that particular note, though, so did my mother – despite the fact that the term “jammy egg” wouldn’t have crossed her mind.]
But Bon Appétit wasn’t ever, and will never be, Gourmet. Writing about trendy foods and advancing gastronomy are two entirely different things, as are sharing recipes and using food to build community.
Was Gourmet snobby and old-school? Often. It was also the adult in the room, the seasoned parent, the voice of world-traveled wisdom.
It was memory, taste, exploration, comfort, technique, and sophistication, all stitched together with a thread of gravitas. Gourmet understood that food and communion are inseparable, worthy of respect and thoughtful consideration.
Take Reichl’s story about 9/11, for example. You’ll have to buy the book to read the full account, but this excerpt from an interview Riechl gave to Publisher’s Weekly will give you a hint:
How did the New York of the early 2000s shape your time at the magazine?
9/11 was a stunning event for all of us in New York. When the staff of Gourmet went down there with our trays of lasagna and chili and brownies, the firefighters came staggering out of the hell that was Ground Zero and fell on the food. I remember one man saying, “Thank you, you brought me a taste of home.” I think, for all of us, it underlined how important food is, and made us all the more determined to tackle the subjects with seriousness.
The power of this story became clear last Wednesday when, for the first time, the first image to pop in my mind was not the actual memory of where I was on 9/11/2001 (nursing a newborn), but an imagined image of the Gourmet kitchen and all the staff and chefs, in the days after the attack, working around the clock to prepare and deliver food to first responders. Reading Reichl’s account of that time put the memory of the specific event in a broader context. It gave taste and texture to an abstract feeling, not only of loss but also of healing, of how we might knit ourselves back together after tragedy.
And in that memory, for me, the mourning was greater than before. What we’ve abandoned since that day does a disservice to the lives lost on that day.
Last Wednesday evening, sitting in kitchen chairs by the kitchen window, Bernard and I compared notes on our days – the way we do now in the evenings, because we are older, and we are the parents of teenagers who have their own evening plans, leaving us to our own devices.
Bernard said: One of the guys at work was talking about how much he wished we could go back to the way things were right after 9/11, when everybody got along and we supported one another. Kind of makes you wonder, doesn’t it, how everything got so fucked up.
Eighteen years of collective, untreated, post-traumatic stress, perhaps? A superficial, rich-but-soulless recovery that makes everything look cool and progressive on the surface (man buns and vintage-wash shirts and all), while the fear and loathing underneath just fester? Greed-based decisions to value advertising over editorial, glamor over grit?
What I know for certain is this: Some days, every now and again, I remember clearly – and beyond sentimental nostalgia – how things used to be. And I miss them.
And I miss Gourmet.
P.S. Here’s the recipe for Ruth Reichl’s chili
I had to Google hipster page layout… oh. That over wrought stuff.
Jammy eggs? A food blogger used that term. I still don’t know what that means.
Luckily, I’m old. I don’t have to deal with this silliness. 😶
LikeLiked by 1 person
Well, you’d just call it a soft-boiled egg – or maybe a 6-minute egg, to be precise about how you’d like the yolk (runny like jam, not liquid like hot sauce, because you want the hot sauce to stick to some of the yolk, right?). Of course the time for your jammy, soft-boiled egg (5, 6, or 7 minutes) would depend on many factors, like altitude and the freshness and temperature of your eggs. And Gourmet would have explained all that, would also have written about how eggs have come back into vogue as dinner food, and probably would have included bits about farming and the resurgence of backyard chickens, what it tells us about the food economy and culture in general. That’s how Gourmet, I imagine, would have done a piece on jammy eggs (a good and descriptive term, if trendy). All to say, again: Bon Appétit will never be Gourmet.
And, in that vein: all of the papers taken over by Gannett (Look! We give you the news in friendly, color-coded graphics!) will never, ever be the ones they replaced. Journalism… what a loss, for all of us.
LikeLiked by 2 people
Wow! So complicated. Besides, I always think that a soft boiled egg was about 3 or 4 minutes, as opposed to a hard boiled one, which is 6 or 7 minutes. I think eggs as a dinner food came back because people add them to hamburgers and pizza. From there, everything is fair game. Of course, for the Chinese, eggs have always been dinner food — fried rice and egg foo young come to mind.
There are feral chickens all over New Orleans. I doubt that they are edible because they are very well muscled.
When USA Today first came on the scene an old friend from my UPI days was the Director of Photography. He used to give talks about what it was like to work for a newspaper that looked like a Hawaiian shirt.
The loss for journalism is all of the mid and small sized dailies. They are the ones that kept local politicians, businesses and agencies honest. Now that venture capital companies have bought and merged them, there are very few boots on the ground. Worse, they are centrally edited… some in India. Some former print journalists try to replicate what they did online. With very few funds and no real marketing, they preach to a very small choir.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you. I thought I was the only one who hated the new Bon Appetit. I cancelled my subscription after one too many layouts of what my sister calls “messy food.” I need ingredients I have heard of. Old timer? Yes and proud of it. Please bring back the old Gourmet.
I actually do like Bon Appétit in its current incarnation. Much, much better than it used to be. But, yeah, Gourmet… I finally did throw out all but a few holiday ones when I ran out of bookshelf space. A sad day. I had them all the way from when I went to college in 1977 (among the 3 mags my mom got me subscriptions for, the others were The New Yorker and The New Republic).
Comments are closed.